Friday, November 22, 2019

How to Build a Chicken Coop

When deciding how to build a chicken coop, think about the structures you may already have access to. An old wood shed, a potting shed, or outdoor tool shed can make good starter structures without investing a lot of time and money. They also would be considered “green”, since you are salvaging old wood.

How to Build a Chicken Coop


These starter structures should be wood, as metal can quickly become too hot inside for your chickens to survive in the warmer months.

Starting from Scratch
Of course you can always start from scratch and design your own plans. If you are good with a hammer and this is how you decide to go there are some things to keep in mind.

Never use wood that has been treated to withstand termites and weather rot. This wood has been chemically treated and can contain poisons. Remember that whatever goes into your chickens while they are scratching and pecking at everything will end up in you by way of their eggs.

Also beware of lead based paint. You can still run across it from time to time, and it could have been used on an old structure you are considering as a starter coop. Any old paint on this type of building should be removed.

Don’t expect chicken wire to keep your poultry safe. It easily gives way to determined predators like coyotes, raccoons, opossums, and your neighbor’s dog. The best place for chicken wire is as a “floor” for your run area. Predators can’t get in by digging under, but the chickens still have access to the ground, grass, and bugs.

Size Planning
Plan your space to accommodate the number of chickens you are planning to keep. A standard Cochin, for example, needs 4 feet of space. If you are going to keep 3 chickens, you will need 12 feet of space. If you want more than one rooster, you will need multiple pens.

Roosters do not co-exist well. They will fight – usually to the death. Fighting will stress the hens and may cause them to cease laying eggs.

If you are keeping chicken for egg production, the amount of eggs laid will depend on the breed of chicken. Most any chicken will lay an egg every one to three days, but some, like the Plymouth Rock will lay an egg a day – every day – for about 3 years.

If you just want enough eggs for your family and a good pet in the deal, you could use Cochins. They will lay nearly everyday and they make great pets for children . So with 3 Cochin hens you can expect about 1.5 dozen eggs a week.

If you plan to have extra eggs to sell, you can generally plan for one hen to lay 5 eggs per week . Divide the number of eggs you want per week by 5, and that will give you the approximate number of chickens you will need to house to attain your egg goal. This will give you a good idea of how much space you’ll need for your chickens.

The 12 feet of space you need for 3 chickens is the minimum. The more space you provide, the healthier the chickens will be. Cramped space will stress the hens, make them more prone to disease, and shorten their lifespan.

Designing Your Chicken Coop
When you are deciding how you want your chicken coop to look remember to plan for access. You will need a way to clean it out regularly, and you will need a way to gather the eggs easily.

You will also need to provide a run so that the chickens can come out and exercise each day. This should attach to the coop so that you just open a door to let them come out. If the coop is up off the ground, the door can latch from the top. This will allow it to drop down and become a bridge for the chickens to walk down to the ground.

There are a lot of chicken coop plans on the internet that are downloadable. Some are better than others. Check out the reviews on this site to make sure you get the best one.

Whether you want a rustic, charming, country chicken coop, or one that compliments your homes architecture, building your own chicken coop is fun and satisfying.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/how-to-build-a-chicken-coop

Guide to Raising Chickens

Raising chickens has become a popular and profitable pastime for many families today. Not just for rural or country dwellers anymore, small chicken endeavors can be found in many towns and even cities.

Guide to Raising Chickens


Starting Baby Chicks
If you order day old chicks from a hatchery to be shipped to you, the first care they receive is important to their development. Most post offices require that you pick them up since their vehicles for delivery are not climate controlled . As soon as you get them home open the box and hydrate them. Use Pedialyte for the first day to give them the best start.

Feeding is less important at this point. The first 3 days of a chick’s life it is still digesting the yolk. This is nature’s way of giving the chick time to learn to eat.

When raising chickens you must have a warm place for them to stay until they feather out. This can be a plastic storage container, a large aquarium, or a cardboard box. Use newspaper to line the bottom for easy and regular cleaning. They will need to be kept at 99 – 100 degrees Fahrenheit for the first week. Then you can decrease the temperature by 5 degrees weekly until you get down to 80 degrees.

Feed them a good grade of chick starter, which is ground corn and grains with vitamins and calcium, until they feather out and become big enough to eat regular chicken feed or pellets.

Housing and Safety
If you get more than one rooster in your batch of baby chicken you will have to separate them before they become adults. Just because they don’t fight when they are young doesn’t mean it is safe to keep them together later . Once they become sexually mature they will injure each other, and if not separated, they can kill each other.

Raising chickens requires space both in a coop and in an outdoor pen. Each standard sized adult chicken will need at least four square feet of space. More is preferable. Cramped quarters lead to illness, squabbling, and nervous hens who won’t lay eggs well.

You may not realize how much wildlife you have around your home until the smell of fresh chickens you’re raising brings them out. Opossums, raccoons, skunks, rats, snakes, coyotes, and many other predators would love to feast on your lovely flock of chickens.

Keep your chickens safe from predators by:
  • Lock them up tight in the coop at night. A slide lock will not keep an experienced raccoon out. You may have to use a padlock.
  • Even if the chickens are safe inside a coop at night, predators can dig under to eat their feed and contaminate it with infections. Worse, they may not be able to get back out and be waiting for you in morning. Using wire for a floor in the outdoor or run area of the chicken pen to discourage digging predators will keep your chickens and you safer.
  • There are some LED lights on the market now that mimic the shining eyes of a dog or coyote at night that have been proven to reduce vermin.
  • You local feed store may carry “fox pee” that you can sprinkle around the cage and coop to keep vermin away. It must be reapplied regularly.
Whether you are raising chickens for eggs, a small business, or a fun family project you will find it a rewarding experience.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/guide-to-raising-chickens

Thursday, November 21, 2019

DIY Chicken Coop

For a DIY chicken coop the amount of success is directly related to the amount of planning . The first tools you need are pencil and paper. Use it to answer these questions:

DIY Chicken Coop

  • How many chickens do you plan to keep? Each standard sized chicken needs 4 square feet of space. Bantam breeds need 2 square feet per chicken, and the giant breeds, such as the Jersey Giants, need 6 square feet of space per chicken. The more space you can provide, the happier and healthier your chickens will be. More space means less squabbling, and cramped quarters make your chickens more prone to illness.
  • What types of predators do you have to guard against in your area? Skunks and opossums will dig under fencing, hawks swoop from above, and raccoons can open any device short of a padlock. Your diy chicken coop must provide security from these dangers.
  • What type of climate do you have? Very cold climates necessitate a snug, waterproof coop; hot climates demand good ventilation in the coop, although you still need to keep rain from coming in. You climate will also come into play when deciding what breed of chickens you choose. There are literally hundreds of breeds, some do better in hot climates, some in cold and others are great for tropical weather. Breed research is important when deciding which breeds will be best for you.
  • No matter what your climate is like you will need to provide a run for your chickens. They need fresh air and sunshine as often as possible. The run gives them opportunity for exercise, bug hunting and snacking on surrounding vegetation or grass. This is part of keeping your chickens healthy.
  • Do you want your diy chicken coop to be mobile, or is it going to stay in one spot? A chicken tractor, made to move around the yard to different spots is a great idea for small flocks. It enables the chickens to have fresh vegetation to explore daily.
One you have formulated a plan, it’s time to thing about your building materials. Treated lumber can be toxic, so it’s better to use wood that has not been treated to withstand rot or termites. Lead based paint is still available in many salvage building supplies. Chickens peck at everything – don’t use lead based paint – they will peck it and it will end up in your eggs.

Chicken wire is not a good choice for chicken pens. It can be ripped apart by determined predators. The only good place to use chicken wire is on the bottom of the pen. It absolutely halts predators that try to dig under to get in.

The fun part of your diy chicken coop is the design process. Decide whether you want a rustic look, or a coop that mimics the look of your home. You can design a chicken coop that is reminiscent of an urban apartment house, or that looks like a gingerbread house. The diy chicken coop designer is limited only by his imagination.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/diy-chicken-coop

Chicken Health

Your chicken’s health is dependant on several factors. The healthier your chickens are the better quality eggs they will lay and the longer laying season they will have. Chickens in poor health are stressed and do not lay eggs nearly as often as their healthy counterparts.

Chicken Health


Vaccines
If you order your chicks from a commercial hatchery you can pay a nominal fee to have them vaccinated against some common fowl maladies. This is usually only a few cents per chick and is well worth the extra cost. You van also vaccinate your chickens at home. Some vaccines to consider are:
  • Marek’s Disease is a highly contagious virus that causes tumors in chickens . Most hatcheries offer the vaccine for this disease. The virus is shed through dander and is then inhaled by the rest of the flock. There is no cure for this disease, and the only prevention once exposed is early vaccination. Give vaccine to one day old chicks.
  • Newcastle Disease is a virus spread through infected chicken droppings and secretions from their mouth, nostrils, and eyes. Symptoms include respiratory difficulty, tremors, neck twisting, and death. Can cause flu symptoms and conjunctivitis in exposed humans. Vaccinate day old chicks to prevent this disease.
  • Infectious Bronchitis vaccine should be given to 10 – 35 days of age. It can be given in their drinking water with Newcastle vaccine at this stage, or as an injection at 14-18 weeks.
Other vaccines are available but are only given if a problem arises in your flock.

Cleanliness
Your chickens coop and pens should be completely cleaned at least once a week. This will cut down on bacteria and other causes of illness significantly. Always make sure the food and water dishes are cleaned daily, and remove any unused food. Keep chicken feed in airtight, waterproof containers that rats can’t get in. If your chicken feed gets wet, replace it.

Using a movable coop or cage for your chickens is convenient and cuts down on the buildup of droppings. It also gives chickens fresh areas to forage for plant material, insects, and small pieces of grit. The bonus for chicken owners is that moving the pen around eliminates the bare, brown spots in the yard that are sure to occur with a non-movable pen.

Quality Food
Be sure to give your chickens the proper food for their age. Protein and carbohydrate needs vary with age. Supplement commercial chicken feed with greens and vegetables.

The healthiest chickens get to eat a wide variety of grains, seeds, and vegetables. They can have scraps from your salads and peelings from fruits and vegetables.
Don’t give them any meat products, or leftover salad that has dressing on it.

Signs of Illness
If one of your chickens has diarrhea, is sneezing, won’t get up to eat, or has drainage from its mouth, eyes, or nostrils, remove it from the rest of the flock and have it checked out. A chicken, like people, can get a cold. But until you know it’s safe, keep it separated.

Many chicken diseases can go through a flock quickly, and the first signs of illness are the same for many diseases. To know for sure whether or not you have a problem can be a simple look under the microscope, but many illnesses require a blood test.

Taking precautions to prevent illness is always easier and cheaper than having to diagnosis and find a cure for a sick flock.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/chicken-disease

Chicken Disease

If you suspect that one of your chickens is ill, immediately remove it from the vicinity of the flock. This is to help prevent any disease from spreading.

Chicken Disease


Each day when you feed and water your chickens do a visual inspection. Make sure there aren’t any chickens with dirty feathers around the anus that may signal diarrhea, and that their eyes and nostrils are clear with no drainage. Be aware of chickens that are reluctant to get up and walk. Decreased food and water intake or a slowdown in egg production can also be symptoms of illness.

Prevention
In order to prevent sickness in poultry there are four major considerations.
  • Have your day old chicks vaccinated before they are shipped. In most hatcheries this is a nominal charge per chick and well worth the extra change. The vaccinations can save you a search for an avian veterinarian and exorbitant costs.
  • Keep cages, food and water containers, and nesting areas clean. Regular cleaning keeps illness at bay, and can save a flocks demise from one ill chicken.
  • Use chicken feed that contains low dose antibiotics for continuous protection against many bacterial infections.
  • Use variety in feeding your flock to make sure they get a balance of vitamins, minerals, protein and carbohydrates. When you are supplementing with veggies, don’t forget peelings from citrus fruits for vitamin C.
The combination of these preventions won’t guarantee a healthy flock, but it will go a long way in making sure your chickens immunity is at its best when disease comes along.

Some Common Chicken Diseases
Bronchitis symptoms are difficulty breathing (gasping), discharge from eyes and nares, avoidance of food and water. Increase the chicken’s ambient temperature by 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and give antibiotics.

Avian Flu symptoms are respiratory distress, diarrhea, and lack of interest in food, decreased egg laying. This disease goes through a flock quickly. Antibiotics, rest, and hope for the best is about all you can do. Broad spectrum antibiotic do sometimes work if the chickens immune system is strong before acquiring the disease. There is a vaccine available for chickens, but it is limited to qualifying flocks.

Infectious Sinusitis is a sinus infection that is considered chronic. The chickens present with sneezing, swollen nares, discharge from the nares and eyes. Antibiotics given through their food and water are very effective for this condition.

Bird Pox is sometimes called Chicken Pox but it is not the same as the human version. The chickens have congestion along with flesh that may look raw with warty type bumps. The most obvious appearance is on the legs. The vaccine for this disease is effective, but once the chickens have the disease there is no available treatment.

Eye Worms is a species of roundworm that your chickens can get from earthworms, crickets, flies or anything that has eaten the larva. Symptoms are swollen eyes with white discharge from the eyes and mouth. The white chunks are the larva of the mature worm. Worm your chickens at least every 6 months with a good broad spectrum wormer. If the larval symptom appears, clean and disinfect coop and pens. If you don’t kill the larva the cycle will keep repeating itself.

This is just a short selection of the more common chicken diseases, but prevention is always easier than the cure. Keep your chicken pens clean, provide vaccines, and pay special attention to nutritious food and clean water.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/chicken-disease

Chicken Coop Kits

Chicken coop kits can be a great way to begin your backyard chicken farm if you are short on time or insecure about your ability with a hammer. The kits come complete with wood cut to specs, all hardware needed, and a set of plans. Some companies include everything down to a paintbrush.

Chicken Coop Kits


Choosing your Kit
The size of the kit you buy should be directly related to the number of chickens you plan to house. A standard 4’x4’ coop will house 3-4 standard size hens comfortably. Each adult needs 4 square feet of space, and the 4’x4’ coop provides 16 square feet.

Of course you will need to provide some exercise area for the chickens to be able to get fresh air and sunshine, and to give them a chance to scratch around and just be “chickens”. This will require a chicken run be attached to the coop.

Most chicken coop kits do not include the chicken run area. It can be purchased separately, or you can add one yourself with a simple wood frame and some good gauge wire.

When you are purchasing your chicken coop kit, pay close attention to the specs on the coop. Some manufacturers will include space in their measurement that is not useable space for the chickens. In your home the square footage does not usually include bathrooms and closet space, and in a chicken coop nest boxes and roosting space should not be included as living space.

Query the manufacturer as to the type of wood used in their structures. Wood that has been pressure treated to prevent rot and termites can contain arsenic. Also, if you order a run with your chicken coop kit, make sure it won’t be outfitted with chicken wire. Chicken wire is easily torn through by neighborhood dogs and other predators.

Beginning Your Project
Once your new chicken coop kit arrives, check and count all materials and check them against the shippers manifest. This may seem silly to bring up, but many people forget to do this and find out halfway through the project that there are parts missing.

If you check the list and contact the manufacturer for replacements first, your blood pressure doesn’t go up nearly as much as when you are in the midst of the project and have to wait.

Pick a place for your chicken coop in your yard. Unless you ordered a movable “chicken tractor”, you will need a spot that is going to provide protection from the elements.

The chickens, like all creatures, will need some sunshine, but also need shade in the summer heat. If you live in a cold climate, you will want to take into consideration placement that will give some protection from the north wind.

Also plan for protection from the known predators in your area. A slide bolt is no match for a raccoon that smells chickens. Raccoons are smart; you may need to consider a padlock on your coop at night to protect against them.

Have Fun
Keeping chickens is a fast growing hobby. People find that chickens are great pets and pay for their keep in eggs. It is a lot of fun for the whole family and can even turn into a small business.

First time chicken buyers are amazed at the variety of beautifully feathered and exotic birds available, and what started as a hobby has become an obsession.
So make your first chicken coop kit the largest that you can afford. Your first chickens will appreciate the extra space, and a few chickens later it may become really crowded.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/chicken-coop-kits

Best Laying Chickens

What are the best laying chickens for your backyard flock? All chickens lay eggs, but some breeds egg production is better than others. If you need chickens that lay an egg everyday and have a long production period, there are three varieties to choose from.

Best Laying Chickens


White Leghorn
The White Leghorn is one of the most popular chicken breeds all over the world with good reason. Each Leghorn hen lays about 300 eggs per year. They mature early and can begin laying eggs by 4-5 months of age.

Their eggs are large and slightly off-white in color. They are flighty and will avoid human contact if possible, so they are not good candidates for chickens you want as pets.

White Leghorns are one of the best laying chickens but rarely go broody, so if you want to hatch out some eggs you will need another breed to set them or an incubator.

These chickens do well in hot climates, and their combs get frostbite in cold weather.

Rhode Island Red
One of the best laying chickens for brown eggs, but are known to be aggressive, especially the roosters.

These chickens adapt well to confinement, and are hardy in hot or cold climates, but are prone to frostbite on their combs.

The Rhode Island Reds are usually laying by 5-6 months of age and are prolific producers of medium brown eggs.

Red Star and Black Star Sex linked
This breed that has earned the status of best laying chickens, are prolific layers of large brown eggs. They are also docile and make good pet that can interact with children.

The conversion rate from feed to eggs is excellent in these hens, and they continue laying through cold winter months when a lot of other breeds of hens don’t. If you raise them from chicks, you can expect to see your first eggs when they are about 4.5 months old. By 6 months old they will be producing eggs every day.

The sex linked gene makes these chickens easy to sex at first glance at hatching, but they do not carry that trait on to their future generations. However, this trait makes it easy to not buy unwanted roosters.

This is a good choice for family projects, or a small business endeavor for selling eggs.

Roosters or No Roosters?
If you are only interested in egg production it is not necessary to house and feed roosters with your hens. You only need roosters if you want, or may want, fertile eggs. If you don’t intend to hatch baby chicks to sell or increase your flock size, there is no reason to waste feed on a rooster.

Productivity Limits of Hens
Most hens are all done producing eggs by the time they are 3-4 years old. By the time they are 3 you will see a decline in the number of eggs produced, and the laying will become erratic at best. These chickens can then be slaughtered and put in a pot for stews or chicken and dumplings.

Of course if your best laying chickens have become your friends you may just put them out to pasture for the good service they have provided.

Source: chickencoopplansonline.com/best-laying-chickens

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